Sunday, 16 October 2016

Restaurant butterfly emerges from the Sydney rubble

When I attended a wine tasting at The Langham, Sydney, a few weeks back, the luxury hotel was something of a building site.

You could see the frowns on disapproval on the faces of regular guests.



Now the work has finished and Sydney has a new neighbourhood bistro, Bistro Remy, moving into a very competitive space.
Located in the luxury hotel and a short walk from The Rocks, Barangaroo and Walsh Bay, the new bistro's menu has been created by young chef Dave Whitting, who has a most impressive CV.

Whitting was most recently responsible for the new menu at the popular Subiaco Hotel in Western Australia and was Guillaume Brahimi's head chef at his western outpost of Bistro Guillaume in Perth. His experience also includes a stage at the triple Michelin-starred Le Bernardin in New York as well as stints at both Bistro Moncur and Jonah's.

“I like to juxtapose the familiar with the unexpected,” he says. “The menu is produce-led and I enjoy experimenting with the dehydrator. I use ale to re-hydrate the rye sourdough we serve as part of the bistro's heirloom beetroot dish. I use it, as well, for an element of our wild mushroom fricassee served with mushroom custard, smoked hazelnuts and hand-made chestnut cavatelli.



“I'm also a big fan of using our own smoker and use it to smoke Mt Cook Alpine salmon and many of the nuts on the menu. Our twice-cooked gruyere soufflé is a dish known to most but ours is made with veal stock that adds flavour and gives the dish a rich caramel colour.”

Modern reinventions of classic bistro dishes include a tarte tatin made with quince and a surprising pairing of blue cheese and marshmallow.

Signature dishes include black ash tortellini filled with silky potato crème and dressed with Pecorino and watercress; and Golden Plains pork belly accented with apple and potato crème.

The single-page menu also showcases plenty of choice for vegetarians.

Bistro Remy's wine list incudes the likes of the 2015 Chalmers Nero d'Avola from Heathcote and a 2012 Catena Zapata Malbec from Argentina.

Entrées are generally under $20 and there are no mains over $40. Bistro Remy is open for lunch Monday through Friday and for dinner Monday-Saturday. Bookings on (02) 9256 2222.

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